It All Comes Up Pudding
One of the better traditions of my former law firm was an office Thanksgiving lunch held on the day before Thanksgiving.† The firm provided the turkey, dressing and ham; and the partners, associates and staff provided side dishes drawn from their family traditions.† My first year with the law firm, I brought an enormous bowl of the chocolate pudding that was a staple on the menu of my friend Richard Perry’s Jefferson Avenue Boarding House in St. Louis.
The pudding was a hit, even if almost everyone called it mousse.† The pudding took on a life of its own; regardless how I tried to substitute another dish, each year I was forced to make the pudding in addition to whatever else I had chosen to cook.† As a result, on this day, I have made that chocolate pudding every year for fifteen years, even in the years when client obligations meant I would not be attending the lunch party.
Over the years, the significance of that meal together waned.† The office grew in size.† Store-bought foods found their way onto the menu.† People opted for a day of vacation rather than joining their colleagues around several dining tables.† At the end, I felt the meal was nothing more than an excuse for those blessed with much already to gorge two days in a row.† And yet, I continued to cook the chocolate pudding as demanded and whip by hand quarts of cream as garnish.
Last night, however, in the moments before sleep overcame me, I thought of that pudding.† Of gifts of food as expressions of thanks for having the means to give.† And I missed making that dead-simple, but oh-so-satisfying dessert.
This morning, I arose a bit early, assembled ingredients, a saucepan and a bowl, and made my annual batch of chocolate pudding.† I thought about giving a few bowlsful to friends; I thought about taking it to my family’s Thanksgiving dinner.
Instead, I took my large batch of pudding and freshly whipped cream to my favorite Over the Rhine haunt, Tucker’s Restaurant.† Joe and Carla Tucker traditionally serve the turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, etc. meal as the special on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving and close the restaurant on the holiday.† I have asked Carla to give a small bowl of my pudding to each guest who orders the turkey special, until the pudding runs out.
Today, I share my Thanksgiving chocolate pudding with guests for whom the $7.00 special is a luxury, with those I recognize but do not know for whom the Wednesday special will be Thanksgiving dinner, and with those without family, and in many cases, home for whom that little restaurant on Vine Street is as much home as anyplace and its proprietors as much family as anyone.
I am thankful for many things today.
***
I am certain that my friend Richard Perry won’t mind my publishing the chocolate pudding recipe here.
Richard Perry’s Boarding House Chocolate Pudding
3 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/4 cups cocoa
1/2 teaspoon salt
7 cups milk
1 cup cornstarch
2 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 tablespoons vanilla extract
In a large pot, whisk together the sugar, cocoa and salt.† Add 7 cups milk and heat to boiling, stirring constantly.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and remaining milk.† Add 1 cup of the hot liquid and thoroughly mix to temper.† Add the cornstarch mixture back to the pot.† Return to a boil stirring constantly; let boil 1 minute.† Remove from heat.
Add vanilla and blend.† Transfer pudding to a container.† Cover surface of pudding with waxed paper to prevent a skin from forming.† Refrigerate until cold.
Serve with a large dollop of freshly whipped cream.
